Panguva ino yegore, pamusoro pezvisarudzo nezvinangwa, mhepo dzeshanduko dzinovhuvhuta mukuwanda kwekufanotaura kwefashoni kwemwaka iri mberi. Mamwe anoraswa pakupera kwaNdira, asi mamwe anonamatira. Munyika yezvishongo, 2020 ichaona zvishongo zvakanaka zvevarume zvichiva izvo zvinonamatira.
Mukati mezana ramakore rapfuura zvishongo zvakaisvonaka hazvina kubatanidzwa mutsika nevarume, asi zviri kuchinja nokukurumidza. Jewellery iri kuchinja, uye zvitayera zvitsva hazvizove zvakanangana nevakadzi. Vakomana vari kutorazve basa reRegency dandy, vachiongorora zvishongo zvekuwedzera hunhu uye kuratidza hunhu hwavo. Kunyanya, zvishongo zvakanaka mabrooches, mapini uye zvimedu zvichange zviri maitiro makuru, akasungirirwa kune akawanda uye akawanda lapels uye makora.
Kugunun'una kwekutanga kwemaitiro aya kwakanzwika pasvondo reCouture muParis, uko Boucheron akaunza dhaimondi chena yePolar Bear brooch yevarume, mukuwedzera kune Jack Box muunganidzwa wemapini makumi maviri nenhanhatu egoridhe kuti apfekwe ega kana, kumurume anoda kutaura, zvese kamwechete.
Izvi zvakateverwa zvakanyanya neNew York mugadziri Ana Khouri's show kuPhillips Auction House, uko varume vaive vakashongedzwa muemerald cuff mhete. Kare, varume vaigaro tarisa pane zvishongo zvinoratidzira zvechinyakare 'manly' motifs sezvombo, chiratidzo chemauto kana matehenya, asi iko zvino vari kuisa mari mumatombo anokosha uye runako. Kufanana nedhaimani dema rakapinzwa mhete dzeminwe mbiri dzakagadzirwa nemugadziri wemuBrazil Ara Vartanian, ane vatengi vechirume vanokumbira kuti matombo avo ekuzvarwa abatanidzwe, mapini edhaimani aNikos Koulis neemerald, mabhurekete edhaimondi aMesika's Move Titanium, kana brooch yaShaun Leane yegoridhe inoyevedza.
“Pashure penguva refu yavarume vachitya kuratidzira hunhu hwavo kupfurikidza namabwe anokosha, ivo vari kuva vanoedza zvikuru,” anodaro Leane, achibvumira. “Patinotarisa shure kunguva yaElizabethan, varume vakanga vakangoshongedzwa sezvakanga zvakaita vakadzi, sezvaifananidzira fashoni, chinzvimbo uye tsvarakadenga.” Nekuwedzera, Leane anogamuchira magadzirirwo emakomisheni ebespoke gemstone brooches kubva kuvarume vanoda kuunganidza zvidimbu zvehurukuro.
“Bhurochi inzira younyanzvi yokuzvitaura,” anobvuma kudaro Colette Neyrey, mugadziri wezvishongo zvakasvibira zveMaison Coco zvakashongedzwa nedhaimondi mashoko okupandukira ari kutorwa nevarume nevakadzi paDover Street Market. “Saka, pandinoona murume akapfeka bhurochi, ndinoziva kuti murume ane chivimbo… [iye] zvechokwadi [anoziva] chaizvo zvaanoda, uye hapana chinoshamisira.”
Maitiro akasimbiswa paDolce & Gabbana's Alta Sartoria show, uko varume vechirume vaifamba munzira yeruzevha yakashongedzwa nemabrooches, tambo dzemaparera nemichinjikwa yegoridhe. Zvidimbu zvenyeredzi zvaive nhevedzano yemabrooches anoyevedza akachengetedzwa pamakaravati, masikafu uye tie nengetani dzegoridhe dzeVictorian, zvakafemerwa neCaravaggio's 16th century pendi Basket of Fruit, iyo inorembera muMilan's Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Zviratidziro zvemusikirwo zvemuchero mupendi wakave nehupenyu mumatombo anokosha uye enamel musanganiswa aishandiswa kugadzira maonde akaibva, matamba uye mazambiringa.
Sezvineiwo, Caravaggio akapenda muchero kuratidza ephemeral hunhu hwezvinhu zvepanyika, ukuwo Domenico Dolce naStefano Gabbana's succulent brooches yakagadzirwa senhaka kuti ipfuudzwa kuburikidza nezvizvarwa.
“Kuvimbika rutivi rwechimiro chazvino uno muzvipfeko zvechirume, naizvozvo zvine mufungo chose chose kuwedzera pini kuti ishongedze chitarisiko,” anodaro mugadziri weGermany Julia Muggenberg, anoturika maparera eTahiti nematombo akaomarara kubva mumabhuroko endarama. "Pini inoreva kupfekedzwa kwesimba kwechirume, uye nekuisa ruvara muchimiro chedombo, vanosimbisa jira uye vanokwevera kutarisa kune maumbirwo."
Pane ngozi here yekuti vasikana vacho vari kushamisira? Sezvinoita musikirwo, mhembwe inoratidzika kunge yakatsvinda kana ichienzaniswa neyayo yechirume, pikoko? Sezvineiwo kwete, sezvo zvidimbu izvi zvinokodzera vanhurume vese. Ndaizopfeka nemufaro mutsoropodzi wefashoni weVogue Anders Christian Madsen pearl choker, mhete nezvishongo, uye anochiva mhete yangu yedhaimondi negoridhe Elie Top. Yepamusoro Sirius muunganidzwa inoratidzira minimalist yakashungurudzika sirivheri uye yeyero goridhe makesi pamaketani uye mhete dzakanakira zvipfeko zvemasikati, asi inogona kudzokorodza kumashure kuratidza yakavanzika safiri kana emerald yekupenya kwakakomba kana chiitiko chichida. Anogadzira zviunganidzo zviri androgynous uye zvisingagumi, izvo zvingave zvakasikwa munguva yeCharlemagne uye zvakadaro zvine imwe nzira yemangwana. Vakadzi vagara vachikwereta hembe dzevakomana vavo, zvino vanenge voteverawo zvishongo zvavo. Maitiro aya achatiita mapikoko tose.
Nguva yekutumira: Jan-07-2020