Ngeli xesha lonyaka, ukongeza kwizisombululo kunye neenjongo, imimoya yotshintsho ivuthuza kuqikelelo lwefashoni yamaxesha onyaka azayo. Ezinye zilahlwa ekupheleni kukaJanuwari, ngelixa ezinye zinamathele. Ehlabathini lobucwebe, u-2020 uya kubona ubucwebe obuhle bamadoda buba yinto encamathelayo.
Ukutyhubela inkulungwane yokugqibela amatye anqabileyo anqabileyo awazange adityaniswe ngokwenkcubeko namadoda, kodwa oko kutshintsha ngokukhawuleza. Ubucwebe buyatshintsha, kwaye izimbo ezitsha aziyi kujongwa ngokwesini. Amakhwenkwe abuyisela indima ye-Regency dandy, ehlola amatye okongeza umlingiswa kwaye abonise ubuntu babo. Ngokukodwa, ii-brooches zobucwebe obuhle, izikhonkwane kunye neekliphu ziya kuba ngumkhwa omkhulu, ziboshwe kwiilapels kunye neekhola ezininzi.
Izandi zokuqala zalo mkhwa zavakala kwiveki ye-couture eParis, apho uBoucheron wazisa ibrooch yakhe yedayimane emhlophe yePolar Bear yamadoda, ukongeza kwingqokelela yeJack Box yezikhonkwane zegolide ezingama-26 ukuba zinxitywe ngabanye okanye, kwindoda enomdla wokwenza ingxelo, zonke ngaxeshanye.
Oku kwalandelwa ngokusondeleyo ngumboniso womyili waseNew York uAna Khouri ePhillips Auction House, apho amadoda ayenziwe amacici eemerald cuff. Ngaphambili, amadoda ebesoloko ejolisa kubucwebe obubonisa izinto zemveli 'zobudoda' njengezixhobo, iimpawu zomkhosi okanye ukhakhayi, kodwa ngoku batyala imali kumatye anqabileyo kunye nobuhle. Njengedayimani emnyama ejijelweyo amakhonkco eminwe emibini eyenziwe ngumyili waseBrazil uAra Vartanian, abathengi bakhe abangamadoda bacela ukuba kufakwe amatye abo okuzalwa, idayimani kaNikos Koulis kunye nezikhonkwane ze-emerald, izacholo zedayimani ze-Messika's Move Titanium, okanye ibhroshi yebhungane yegolide enomtsalane kaShaun Leane.
“Emva kwexesha elide lamadoda esoyika ukubonakalisa ubuntu bawo ngokusebenzisa amatye anqabileyo, aye esiba ngomalinge ngakumbi,” utsho ngokuvumayo uLeane. “Xa sijonga ngasemva kumaxesha kaElizabethan, amadoda ayehonjiswe njengabafazi, njengoko [izacholo] zazifuzisela ifashoni, iwonga kunye nobuchule obutsha.” Ngokunyukayo, uLeane ufumana iikhomishini zoyilo lweebhroshi zelitye elinqabileyo eliphuma kumadoda azimiseleyo ukuqokelela amaqhekeza encoko.
UColette Neyrey, umyili weMaison Coco eyenziwe mnyama yamatye anqabileyo ahonjiswe ngedayimane enemiyalezo yokubhukuqa eqweqwediswa zizini zombini kwiMarike yaseDover Street. “Ke, xa ndibona indoda enxibe ibrotshi, ndiyazi ukuba yindoda ezithembileyo… ngokuqinisekileyo [uyayazi] eyona nto iyifunayo, kwaye akukho nto intle kakhulu.”
Umkhwa waqinisekiswa kumboniso we-Alta Sartoria kaDolce & Gabbana, apho iimodeli zamadoda zihamba kwindlela yeenqwelomoya ehonjiswe ngeebrooches, iintambo zeeperile kunye neminqamlezo edityanisiweyo yegolide. Iziqwenga zeenkwenkwezi yayiluthotho lweebrotshi ezigqibeleleyo ezikhuselwe kwiicravats, izikhafu kunye namaqhina anemixokelelwane yegolide yohlobo lweVictorian, ephefumlelwe yiCaravaggio yenkulungwane ye-16 yokupeyinta iBasket of Fruit, ejinga kwiBiblioteca Ambrosiana yaseMilan. Imizobo yendalo yesiqhamo esikumzobo yenzeke kumatye anqabileyo kunye nemixube ye-enamel esetyenziselwa ukudibanisa amakhiwane avuthiweyo, iirharnati kunye neediliya.
Okumangalisayo kukuba, iCaravaggio yapeyinta isiqhamo ukubonisa ubume bezinto zasemhlabeni, ngelixa i-Domenico Dolce kunye ne-Stefano Gabbana's succulent brooches zenziwe njengelifa eliza kudluliselwa kwizizukulwana.
"Ukuzithemba kuyinxalenye yesimo samanje kwimpahla yamadoda, ngoko kunengqiqo eyongezelelweyo yokongeza ipini ukuhombisa inkangeleko," utsho umyili waseJamani uJulia Muggenberg, oxhoma iiperile zaseTahiti kunye namatye aqinileyo kwiibrotshi zegolide. "Iphini lithetha ukunxitywa kwamandla okudala kwindoda, kwaye ngokwazisa umbala ngendlela yelitye elinqabileyo, baqaqambisa ilaphu kwaye batsale ingqalelo kwindlela eyenziwe ngayo."
Ngaba kukho ingozi yokuba amantombazana angabikho? Njengakwindalo yendalo, apho intshontsho lepikoko libonakala lilihle xa lithelekiswa nendoda yalo ipikoko? Ngethamsanqa akunjalo, njengoko ezi ziqwenga zilungele zonke izini. Ndinganxiba ngolonwabo umgxeki wefashoni weVogue uAnders Christian Madsen's pearl choker, imisesane kunye nezacholo, kwaye unqwenela idayimani yam neringi yegolide kaElie Top. Ingqokelela ye-Sirius ephezulu ibonakalisa isilivere ecinezelekileyo kunye neemeko zegolide ezityheli kwiintsimbi zomqala kunye namakhonkco alungele iimpahla zemini, kodwa inokuqengqeleka umva ukuze iveze isafire efihliweyo okanye i-emerald yokubengezela okunzulu xa umsitho ufuna. Udala iingqokelela ezizii-androgynous nezingaphelelwa lixesha, ezinokuthi zidalwe ngexesha likaCharlemagne kwaye kunjalo ngandlel’ ithile ikamva. Abasetyhini kudala beboleka iihempe zamakhwenkwe abo, ngoku bazakuba emva kobucwebe babo, nabo. Lo mkhwa uya kusenza iipikoko kuthi sonke.
Ixesha lokuposa: Jan-07-2020