Ngalesi sikhathi sonyaka, ngaphezu kwezinqumo kanye nezinhloso, imimoya yoshintsho ivunguza inqwaba yezibikezelo zemfashini zezinkathi zonyaka ezizayo. Ezinye zilahlwa ekupheleni kukaJanuwari, kanti ezinye zinamathele. Emhlabeni wobucwebe, u-2020 uzobona ubucwebe obuhle bamadoda buba yibo obunamathelayo.
Phakathi nekhulu leminyaka elidlule amagugu amahle awakahlotshaniswa ngokwesiko namadoda, kodwa lokho kushintsha ngokushesha. Ubucwebe buyashintsha, futhi izitayela ezintsha ngeke zicacise ubulili. Abafana baphinde bathola indima ye-Regency dandy, bahlola amagugu ukuze bengeze umlingiswa futhi babonise ubuntu babo. Ikakhulukazi, ama-brooches acwebezelayo, izikhonkwane neziqeshana kuzoba umkhuba omkhulu, ohlanganiswe nama-lapel amaningi kanye namakholomu.
Ukuduma kokuqala kwalo mkhuba kwezwakala ngeviki le-couture eParis, lapho u-Boucheron wethula ibhuloshi lakhe ledayimane elimhlophe i-Polar Bear lamadoda, ngaphezu kweqoqo le-Jack Box lamaphini egolide angama-26 okufanele agqokwe ngawodwana noma, kumuntu ozimisele ngokwenza isitatimende, konke ngesikhathi esisodwa.
Lokhu kulandelwe eduze umbukiso womklami waseNew York u-Ana Khouri e-Phillips Auction House, lapho amadoda ayefakwe khona amacici e-emerald cuff. Esikhathini esedlule, amadoda ayevame ukugxila kubucwebe obubonisa izinto ngokwesiko 'zobudoda' njengezikhali, izimpawu zezempi noma izingebhezi, kodwa manje batshala imali ematsheni ayigugu nasebuhleni. Njengezindandatho zeminwe ephindwe kabili yedayimane elimnyama elidalwe umklami wase-Brazil u-Ara Vartanian, amakhasimende akhe wesilisa acela ukuthi kufakwe amatshe okuzalwa, amaphinikhodi ka-Nikos Koulis wedayimane nesimaragidu, amasongo edayimane ka-Messika's Move Titanium, noma ibhuloshi lebhungane eliphuzi eliphuzi lika-Shaun Leane.
“Ngemva kwesikhathi eside amadoda esaba ukuveza ubuntu bawo ngamatshe ayigugu, aba ngovivinyo ngokwengeziwe,” kusho uLeane, ngokuvumayo. “Lapho sibheka emuva ezikhathini zika-Elizabethan, amadoda ayehlobe njengabesifazane, njengoba [ubucwebe] babufanekisela imfashini, isimo kanye nokusha.” Ngokukhula, u-Leane uthola amakhomishana okuklama ama-brooches ayigugu avela kumadoda azimisele ukuqongelela izingcezu zengxoxo.
“I-brooch iyindlela yobuciko yokuziveza,” kuvuma u-Colette Neyrey, umklami wamatshe ayigugu amasha amnyama e-Maison Coco ahlotshiswe ngemiyalezo evukelayo enedayimane eqoshwa yibo bobabili ubulili e-Dover Street Market. “Ngakho-ke, lapho ngibona owesilisa egqoke ibhuloshi, ngiyazi ukuthi uyindoda ezethembayo kakhulu… [iyazi] ngempela ukuthi ifunani, futhi ayikho into ejabulisa kakhulu.”
Lo mkhuba waqinisekiswa embukisweni we-Alta Sartoria kaDolce & Gabbana, lapho amamodeli wesilisa abehamba umgwaqo ehlotshiswe ngamabhuloshi, izintambo zamaparele neziphambano ezixhunywe ngegolide. Izingcezu zenkanyezi bekuwuchungechunge lwama-brooches amahle avikelwe kuma-cravats, izikhafu nothayi ngamaketanga egolide wesitayela se-Victorian, egqugquzelwe umdwebo we-Caravaggio wekhulu le-16 le-Basket of Fruit, olenga ku-Milan's Biblioteca Ambrosiana. Ukuvezwa kwemvelo kwesithelo emdwebeni kwavela ekuxubeni kwetshe eliyigugu kanye noqweqwe lwawo olusetshenziselwa ukuhlanganisa amakhiwane avuthiwe, amahalananda namagilebhisi.
Okuxakayo ukuthi, i-Caravaggio yapenda isithelo ukuze iveze isimo sesikhathi esidlule sezinto zasemhlabeni, kuyilapho ama-brooches amnandi ka-Domenico Dolce kanye noStefano Gabbana adalwe njengamafa azodluliselwa ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane.
“Ukuzethemba kuyingxenye yesimo samanje sezingubo zabesilisa, ngakho kunengqondo ngokuphelele ukwengeza iphini ukuze uhlobise ukubukeka,” kusho umklami waseJalimane uJulia Muggenberg, olenga amaparele aseTahiti namatshe aqinile ebhulohweni legolide. "Iphinikhodi ibhekisela ekugqokisweni kwamandla kwakudala kowesilisa, futhi ngokwethula umbala onjengetshe eliyigugu, agqamisa indwangu futhi adonse ukunaka kwendlela yokwenza."
Ingabe ikhona ingozi yokuthi amantombazane angabi nasimilo? Njengasezweni lemvelo, lapho ipigogo libonakala lilihle kakhulu uma liqhathaniswa nozakwabo wesilisa, ipigogo? Ngenhlanhla akunjalo, njengoba lezi zingcezu zifanelana nabo bonke ubulili. Ngingagqoka ngokujabula umgxeki wemfashini weVogue u-Anders Christian Madsen, izindandatho namasongo, futhi uhahela idayimane lami nendandatho yegolide ye-Elie Top. Iqoqo le-Top's Sirius lihlanganisa amakesi esiliva acindezelekile amancane naphuzi emigexoni nasezindandeni ezilungele izingubo zasemini, kodwa lingahlehla ukuze liveze isafire efihliwe noma isimaragidu ukuze kube nokucwebezela okukhulu lapho umcimbi ufuna. Udala amaqoqo ane-androgynous futhi angaphelelwa yisikhathi, okungenzeka ukuthi adalwe ngesikhathi sikaCharlemagne futhi nokho ngandlela-thile ikusasa. Abantu besifazane kudala beboleka amahembe amasoka abo, manje sebezolandela ubucwebe babo. Lo mkhuba uzosenza sibe namapigogo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jan-07-2020